/* tips2trip — "field guide with a highlighter": wiki-like reading column,
   airport codes as the recurring mark, a yellow highlighter for the verdicts. */
:root {
  --paper: #fbfaf4; --paper-ink: #121620; --board: #15181d; --flap: #23272e; --flap-ink: #f3efe3; --amber: #f6b93b;
  --bg: #f6f7f4;
  --surface: #ffffff;
  --ink: #141a26;
  --muted: #5a6273;
  --line: #dde0d8;
  --accent: #1d47c9;
  --mark: #ffe25a;
  --mark-ink: #141a26;
  --cover-a: #1d47c9;
  --cover-b: #0f1d4a;
  --display: "Bricolage Grotesque", "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;
  --body: "Source Serif 4", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --mono: "JetBrains Mono", ui-monospace, "SFMono-Regular", Menlo, monospace;
  --measure: 66ch;
  color-scheme: light;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root:not([data-theme="light"]) {
    --bg: #0e121a; --surface: #161b26; --ink: #e9ebf0; --muted: #9aa2b4;
    --line: #283041; --accent: #8aa8ff; --mark: #e8c93a; --mark-ink: #141a26;
    --cover-a: #2a4fbf; --cover-b: #0a1230; color-scheme: dark;
  }
}
:root[data-theme="dark"] {
  --bg: #0e121a; --surface: #161b26; --ink: #e9ebf0; --muted: #9aa2b4;
  --line: #283041; --accent: #8aa8ff; --mark: #e8c93a; --mark-ink: #141a26;
  --cover-a: #2a4fbf; --cover-b: #0a1230; color-scheme: dark;
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }
body {
  margin: 0; background: var(--bg); color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--body); font-size: 1.0625rem; line-height: 1.65;
}
a { color: var(--accent); text-underline-offset: 3px; }
a:focus-visible, button:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--accent); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 2px; }
img { max-width: 100%; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--display); line-height: 1.15; text-wrap: balance; letter-spacing: -0.01em; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3.1rem); font-weight: 700; margin: 0 0 .5rem; }
h2 { font-size: 1.6rem; font-weight: 650; margin: 2.6rem 0 .8rem; }
h3 { font-size: 1.15rem; font-weight: 650; margin: 0 0 .35rem; }
p { margin: 0 0 1rem; }
mark, .mark { background: linear-gradient(transparent 52%, var(--mark) 52%, var(--mark) 92%, transparent 92%); color: inherit; padding: 0 .1em; }
.label { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); }
.code { font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: .04em; }

.wrap {
  max-width: 1120px; margin: 0 auto;
  padding-left: max(16px, env(safe-area-inset-left, 0px));
  padding-right: max(16px, env(safe-area-inset-right, 0px));
}

/* Disclosure strip + header */
.strip { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); font-family: var(--display); }
.strip .wrap { padding-block: .45rem; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: .4rem 1.2rem; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; }
.langs { display: inline-flex; gap: .15rem; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .74rem; }
.langs a { color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; padding: .1rem .35rem; border-radius: 2px; }
.langs a[aria-current="true"] { background: var(--ink); color: var(--bg); }
.langs a:hover { color: var(--accent); }
.site-head { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--bg); position: sticky; top: env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px); z-index: 20; }
body::before { content: ""; position: fixed; inset: 0 0 auto; height: env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px); z-index: 10; background: var(--bg); }
.site-head .wrap { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; padding-block: .8rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.brand { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 800; font-size: 1.35rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; letter-spacing: -0.02em; display: inline-flex; align-items: baseline; gap: .05em; }
.brand b { background: var(--mark); color: var(--mark-ink); padding: 0 .18em; border-radius: 2px; font-weight: 800; }
.nav { display: flex; gap: 1.2rem; flex-wrap: wrap; font-family: var(--display); font-size: .95rem; }
.nav a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.nav a:hover, .nav a[aria-current="page"] { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: var(--mark); text-decoration-thickness: 3px; }

/* Home hero */
.hero { padding-block: 3.2rem 2rem; display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.4fr) minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 2.5rem; align-items: end; }
.hero h1 { font-size: clamp(2.3rem, 6vw, 4rem); max-width: 14ch; }
.hero .lede { font-size: 1.2rem; max-width: 46ch; color: var(--ink); }

.principles { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 1.5rem; padding-block: 1.5rem 2.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.principles p { font-size: .98rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 0; }

/* City grid */

/* Article layout (wiki) */
.article { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 220px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 3rem; padding-block: 2rem 4rem; }
.toc { position: sticky; top: calc(env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px) + 5rem); align-self: start; font-family: var(--display); font-size: .92rem; }
.toc ol { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: .5rem 0 0; display: grid; gap: .4rem; }
.toc a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.toc a:hover { color: var(--accent); }
.content { max-width: var(--measure); min-width: 0; }
.content .lede { font-size: 1.2rem; }
.crumbs { font-family: var(--display); font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.crumbs a { color: var(--muted); }
.page-cover { aspect-ratio: 21 / 8; border-radius: 6px; margin: 1.2rem 0 1.6rem; }
.page-cover .code { font-size: 3rem; }
.facts { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 0; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 6px; background: var(--surface); margin-bottom: 1.6rem; }
.facts div { padding: .7rem .9rem; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); min-width: 0; }
.facts div:last-child { border-right: 0; }
.facts strong { display: block; font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 600; font-size: .98rem; line-height: 1.35; }

/* Lists of entries (neighbourhoods, must-books, transport) */
.entries { display: grid; gap: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.entry { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2.2rem minmax(0, 1fr); gap: .9rem; padding: 1.1rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.entry .n { font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 700; color: var(--accent); font-size: 1rem; padding-top: .1rem; }
.entry p { margin: 0 0 .4rem; }
.entry .tip { font-size: .95rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 0; }
.entry .tip b { color: var(--ink); font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 600; }
.verdict { display: inline-block; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .7rem; letter-spacing: .07em; text-transform: uppercase; background: var(--mark); color: var(--mark-ink); padding: .12rem .45rem; border-radius: 2px; margin-bottom: .35rem; }
.btn { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .4rem; font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 600; font-size: .95rem; background: var(--ink); color: var(--bg); padding: .6rem 1rem; border-radius: 4px; text-decoration: none; border: 0; cursor: pointer; }
.btn:hover { background: var(--accent); color: #fff; }
.btn.ghost { background: transparent; color: var(--ink); border: 1px solid var(--line); }
.btn.ghost:hover { border-color: var(--accent); color: var(--accent); background: transparent; }

.shortlists { display: grid; gap: .6rem; margin: 0 0 1rem; padding: 0; list-style: none; }
.shortlists li { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; align-items: baseline; padding: .7rem .9rem; background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 6px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.shortlists .st { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .72rem; color: var(--muted); text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .07em; }

.callout { background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-left: 4px solid var(--mark); padding: 1rem 1.1rem; border-radius: 4px; margin: 1.4rem 0; font-size: .98rem; }

/* Landing: video + picks */
.video { aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; max-width: 100%; background: linear-gradient(135deg, var(--cover-a), var(--cover-b)); border-radius: 6px; display: grid; place-items: center; color: #fff; text-align: center; margin: 1.2rem 0 .6rem; position: relative; }
.video .play { width: 72px; height: 72px; border-radius: 50%; background: rgba(255,255,255,.95); display: grid; place-items: center; margin: 0 auto .6rem; }
.video .play::after { content: ""; border-left: 20px solid #141a26; border-top: 12px solid transparent; border-bottom: 12px solid transparent; margin-left: 5px; }
.video small { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .78rem; opacity: .85; }
.picks { display: grid; gap: 1.2rem; margin: 1.6rem 0; }
.pick { background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 6px; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 220px minmax(0, 1fr); overflow: hidden; }
.pick .cover { aspect-ratio: auto; min-height: 100%; }
.pick .cover .code { font-size: 2.6rem; }
.pick .body { padding: 1.1rem 1.2rem 1.2rem; min-width: 0; }
.pick dl { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 9rem minmax(0, 1fr); gap: .3rem .8rem; margin: .7rem 0 1rem; font-size: .96rem; }
.pick dt { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 600; }
.pick dd { margin: 0; }
.pick .actions { display: flex; gap: .6rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.checklist { list-style: none; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: .5rem; }
.checklist li { padding-left: 1.6rem; position: relative; }
.checklist li::before { content: "✓"; position: absolute; left: 0; font-family: var(--mono); color: var(--accent); font-weight: 700; }

/* Footer */
.site-foot { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-top: 2rem; font-size: .9rem; color: var(--muted); }
.site-foot .wrap { padding-block: 2rem 2.5rem; display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.4fr) repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 2rem; }
.site-foot a { color: var(--muted); }
.site-foot ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: .4rem 0 0; display: grid; gap: .3rem; }
.site-foot .fine { grid-column: 1 / -1; font-size: .8rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); padding-top: 1rem; }

form.contact { display: grid; gap: .9rem; max-width: 34rem; }
form.contact label { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 600; font-size: .95rem; display: grid; gap: .3rem; }
form.contact input, form.contact textarea, form.contact select { font: inherit; padding: .6rem .7rem; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 4px; background: var(--surface); color: var(--ink); }

@media (max-width: 860px) {
  .hero, .article { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 1.5rem; }
  .toc { position: static; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 6px; padding: .8rem 1rem; background: var(--surface); }
  .principles { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .pick { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .pick .cover { aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; min-height: 0; }
  .site-foot .wrap { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
}
@media (max-width: 520px) {
  .facts { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .facts div { border-right: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .facts div:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
  .pick dl { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .pick dt { margin-top: .4rem; }
  .nav { gap: .9rem; font-size: .9rem; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { * { scroll-behavior: auto !important; transition: none !important; } }

/* v2 additions */
figure.video { margin: 1.2rem 0 1.6rem; background-image: linear-gradient(rgba(10,18,48,.45), rgba(10,18,48,.65)), var(--img, none), linear-gradient(135deg, var(--cover-a), var(--cover-b)); background-size: cover; background-position: center; padding: 1rem; }
figure.video strong { font-family: var(--display); font-size: 1.1rem; }
.tags { display: flex; gap: .5rem; align-items: center; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-bottom: .35rem; }
.tags .verdict { margin: 0; }
.price { font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 700; font-size: .78rem; color: var(--accent); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 2px; padding: .08rem .4rem; letter-spacing: .05em; }
.actions { display: flex; gap: .9rem; align-items: center; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: .7rem; }
.why { font-family: var(--display); font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); }
.fineprint { font-size: .84rem; color: var(--muted); font-family: var(--display); line-height: 1.5; }
.fineprint b { font-family: var(--mono); color: var(--accent); }
.cta-row { display: flex; gap: .7rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.two { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 1rem; }
ul.plain { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: .5rem 0 0; display: grid; gap: .45rem; }
ul.plain .verdict { margin-right: .5rem; }
.h-link { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.h-link:hover { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: var(--mark); }
.site-foot .fine p { margin: 0 0 .6rem; }
.callout h3 { margin-bottom: .3rem; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .two { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); } }

/* v3: illustrations, bag tags, split-flap board, icons */
.hero-img { margin: 1.2rem 0 1.6rem; border-radius: 6px; overflow: hidden; aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; max-width: 100%; background: var(--cover-b); }
.hero-img img { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.home-img { margin: 0; aspect-ratio: 16 / 10; }
.home-img img { object-position: 72% center; }

.board { background: var(--board); color: var(--flap-ink); border-radius: 8px; padding: 1rem 1rem .8rem; font-family: var(--mono); box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 4px #0b0d10, 0 10px 30px rgba(10,14,30,.18); margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.board-head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; gap: 1rem; flex-wrap: wrap; padding: 0 .3rem .7rem; border-bottom: 2px solid #0b0d10; }
.board-head > span:first-child { font-weight: 800; font-size: 1.35rem; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--amber); }
.board-sub { font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; color: #9aa0aa; }
.board-scroll { overflow-x: auto; }
.board table { border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0 6px; width: 100%; min-width: 620px; font-size: .95rem; }
.board th { text-align: left; font-size: .66rem; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: #9aa0aa; font-weight: 500; padding: .5rem .35rem 0; }
.board td { padding: 0 .35rem; white-space: nowrap; }
.board a { color: inherit; text-decoration: none; }
.board a:hover .flap { color: var(--amber); }
.flap { display: inline-block; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 1.9; padding: 0 1px; text-transform: uppercase;
  background-image: linear-gradient(transparent calc(50% - 1px), #0b0d10 calc(50% - 1px), #0b0d10 calc(50% + 1px), transparent calc(50% + 1px)),
    repeating-linear-gradient(90deg, var(--flap) 0 calc(1ch - 2px), transparent calc(1ch - 2px) 1ch);
  background-color: transparent; border-radius: 2px; }
.flap.amber { color: var(--amber); }
.f-code .flap { color: #fff; }
.board-foot { margin: .5rem .3rem 0; font-size: .7rem; color: #9aa0aa; letter-spacing: .04em; }

.principles { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 1.5rem; padding-block: 1.5rem 2.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.principles p { font-size: .98rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 0; }
.pr { display: grid; gap: .35rem; align-content: start; }
.pr-ic { width: 46px; height: 46px; color: var(--accent); display: block; }
.pr-ic svg { width: 100%; height: 100%; }
.pr h3 { margin: .1rem 0 0; }

.tags-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(170px, 1fr)); gap: 1.4rem 1.1rem; padding-block: .5rem 3rem; }
.tag { display: grid; justify-items: center; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; color: var(--paper-ink); background: var(--paper);
  border-radius: 10px; overflow: hidden; box-shadow: 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,.06), 0 6px 18px rgba(15,29,74,.12); transition: transform .15s ease;
  clip-path: polygon(14px 0, calc(100% - 14px) 0, 100% 14px, 100% 100%, 0 100%, 0 14px); }
.tag:hover { transform: translateY(-3px) rotate(-1deg); }
.tag-band { width: 100%; background: var(--accent); color: #fff; font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 800; font-size: .8rem; letter-spacing: .06em; padding: 1.4rem 0 .45rem; position: relative; }
.tag-hole { position: absolute; top: .45rem; left: 50%; width: 18px; height: 10px; margin-left: -9px; border-radius: 6px; background: var(--bg); box-shadow: inset 0 1px 2px rgba(0,0,0,.35); }
.tag-code { font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 800; font-size: 3.4rem; line-height: 1; letter-spacing: .02em; margin-top: .8rem; }
.tag-city { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 800; font-size: 1.05rem; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .08em; margin-top: .35rem; }
.tag-country { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .68rem; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .1em; color: #5a6273; }
.tag-bar { width: 78%; height: 46px; margin: .8rem 0 .25rem; background: repeating-linear-gradient(90deg, #121620 0 2px, transparent 2px 4px, #121620 4px 7px, transparent 7px 8px, #121620 8px 9px, transparent 9px 12px, #121620 12px 15px, transparent 15px 17px); }
.tag-num { font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .68rem; letter-spacing: .14em; color: #5a6273; padding-bottom: .9rem; }
@media (max-width: 860px) { .principles { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); } .home-img { aspect-ratio: 16 / 8; } }
@media (max-width: 420px) { .tags-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 1rem .8rem; } .tag-code { font-size: 2.6rem; } }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { .tag { transition: none; } }
.city-head { padding-block: 2rem 0; }
.city-head .lede { max-width: 60ch; }
.city-img { aspect-ratio: 21 / 8; margin: 1.4rem 0 0; }
.city-head + .article { padding-top: 2rem; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .city-img { aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; } }
.head-right { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .6rem 1.4rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }

/* v4: must-book thumbnails, currency switch, specs strip, scribble */
.entry.has-thumb { grid-template-columns: 2.2rem minmax(0, 1fr) 168px; }
.thumb { margin: 0; border-radius: 6px; overflow: hidden; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; max-width: 100%; align-self: start; background: var(--cover-b); }
.thumb img { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
@media (max-width: 640px) {
  .entry.has-thumb { grid-template-columns: 2.2rem minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .entry.has-thumb .thumb { grid-column: 2; grid-row: 1; aspect-ratio: 16 / 8; }
  .entry.has-thumb > div { grid-row: 2; grid-column: 2; }
  .entry.has-thumb .n { grid-row: 1 / span 2; }
}
.cur-switch { display: inline-flex; gap: 2px; margin-left: auto; }
.cur-switch button { font: inherit; font-size: .7rem; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: .08em; background: var(--flap); color: #9aa0aa; border: 0; padding: .3rem .5rem; border-radius: 2px; cursor: pointer; }
.cur-switch button[aria-pressed="true"] { color: var(--board); background: var(--amber); }
.board-head { align-items: center; }

.specs { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(5, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 0; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 6px; background: var(--surface); margin: 1.4rem 0 .6rem; overflow: hidden; }
.specs div { padding: .9rem .8rem; border-right: 1px solid var(--line); display: grid; gap: .25rem; min-width: 0; }
.specs div:last-child { border-right: 0; }
.specs b { font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 800; font-size: 1.45rem; color: var(--accent); line-height: 1.1; }
.specs span { font-family: var(--display); font-size: .82rem; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.3; }
@media (max-width: 700px) { .specs { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); } .specs div { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); } }
ul.marks li { padding-left: 1.6rem; position: relative; }
ul.marks li::before { position: absolute; left: 0; font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 800; }
ul.marks.no li::before { content: "✕"; color: #c8102e; }
ul.marks.yes li::before { content: "✓"; color: var(--accent); }

.scribble { white-space: nowrap; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 200 20' preserveAspectRatio='none'%3E%3Cpath d='M3 13 C40 6 80 16 120 9 S180 7 197 11' stroke='%23ffd23a' stroke-width='6' fill='none' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10 17 C60 12 110 18 190 14' stroke='%23ffd23a' stroke-width='3' fill='none' stroke-linecap='round' opacity='.8'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 100% .45em; background-position: 0 100%; padding-bottom: .12em; }

.mb-def { background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-left: 4px solid var(--accent); border-radius: 4px; padding: .9rem 1.1rem; margin: 1.2rem 0; }
.mb-def p { margin: .3rem 0 0; }
.mb-body p { font-size: 1.08rem; }
.hero h1 { font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 5vw, 3.4rem); max-width: 16ch; }
.home-img img { object-position: 88% center; }

/* v5 */
.flap { white-space: pre; }
.board td { font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.from { font-family: var(--display); font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); }
.from b { font-family: var(--mono); color: var(--ink); font-size: .95rem; }
.entry.has-map { grid-template-columns: 2.2rem minmax(0, 1fr) 240px; }
.map { margin: 0; border-radius: 6px; overflow: hidden; border: 1px solid var(--line); align-self: start; max-width: 100%; }
.map svg { display: block; width: 100%; height: auto; }
.feature { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 220px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 1.4rem; align-items: start; margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.feature .checklist { margin: .2rem 0 1rem; }
@media (max-width: 640px) {
  .entry.has-map { grid-template-columns: 2.2rem minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .entry.has-map .map { grid-column: 2; grid-row: 1; }
  .entry.has-map > div { grid-row: 2; grid-column: 2; }
  .entry.has-map .n { grid-row: 1 / span 2; }
  .feature { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
}
.map { margin: .9rem 0 .2rem; max-width: 560px; }
.home-img { aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; align-self: center; }
.home-img img { object-position: center bottom; }
@media (max-width: 860px) { .home-img { aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; } }
.hero { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); padding-block: 3rem 1.2rem; }
.hero .lede { max-width: 62ch; }
.hero h1 { max-width: 22ch; }
.home-wide { aspect-ratio: 16 / 6; margin: 0 0 2rem; }
.home-wide img { object-position: center bottom; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .home-wide { aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; } }
.scribble.thick { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 200 24' preserveAspectRatio='none'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 15 C30 9 62 18 98 12 S160 8 196 13' stroke='%23ffd23a' stroke-width='9' fill='none' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 20 C70 15 120 21 188 17' stroke='%23ffd23a' stroke-width='4' fill='none' stroke-linecap='round' opacity='.85'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-size: 104% .5em; background-position: -2% 100%; padding-bottom: .2em; }
.hero h1 { margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.scribble.thick { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 200 24' preserveAspectRatio='none'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 9 C50 8 110 9.5 160 10 C178 10.5 190 13 197 18' stroke='%23ffd23a' stroke-width='7' fill='none' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-size: 102% .42em; background-position: 0 100%; padding-bottom: .18em; }
.scribble.thick { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 200 24' preserveAspectRatio='none'%3E%3Cpath d='M4 9.5 C55 8.5 115 9.5 160 10.5 C178 11 190 12 197 13.5' stroke='%23ffd23a' stroke-width='7' fill='none' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3C/svg%3E"); }
.hang { display: inline-flex; align-items: flex-start; vertical-align: top; margin-left: .25rem; position: relative; top: .35em; color: var(--muted); }
.hang-string { width: 34px; height: 30px; flex: none; }
.hang-tag { position: relative; display: inline-block; margin-top: 16px; transform: rotate(5deg); transform-origin: left center; white-space: nowrap;
  font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 700; font-size: 1rem; letter-spacing: 0; line-height: 1.2; color: var(--paper-ink);
  background: var(--paper); padding: .45em .9em .45em 1.7em; border: 1.5px solid var(--paper-ink); border-radius: 0 4px 4px 0;
  clip-path: polygon(14px 0, 100% 0, 100% 100%, 14px 100%, 0 50%); }
.hang-tag::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 12px; top: 50%; width: 7px; height: 7px; margin-top: -3.5px; border-radius: 50%; border: 1.5px solid var(--paper-ink); background: var(--bg); }
.hang-tag::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: -1px; border-left: 1.5px solid var(--paper-ink); clip-path: polygon(0 0, 14px 0, 0 50%, 14px 100%, 0 100%); pointer-events: none; }
@media (max-width: 520px) { .hang { display: flex; margin: .2rem 0 .4rem; top: 0; } }
.has-hang { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: flex-start; column-gap: .1rem; }
.has-hang .hang { top: 0; margin: .15em 0 .9rem .1rem; padding-bottom: .6rem; }
@media (max-width: 520px) { .has-hang .hang { margin: 0 0 .8rem; } }
.mb-page { padding-block: 2rem 4rem; }
.mb-page .content { max-width: 760px; }
.city-index { margin: 1.6rem 0 1rem; }
.ci-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(140px, 1fr)); gap: .5rem; margin-top: .5rem; }
.ci-grid a { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .6rem; padding: .55rem .7rem; background: var(--surface); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 6px; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 600; }
.ci-grid a:hover { border-color: var(--accent); }
.ci-grid .code { background: var(--accent); color: #fff; font-size: .78rem; padding: .1rem .35rem; border-radius: 3px; }
.mb-page h2 { scroll-margin-top: 5rem; }
.hero { padding-block: 1.4rem 1.2rem; }
.hero h1 { max-width: none; }
.home-wide { aspect-ratio: 16 / 6; margin: .4rem 0 1.4rem; }
.home-wide img { object-position: center 40%; }
.hero + section .board, .hero ~ section .board { margin-top: .5rem; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .home-wide { aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; margin: .2rem 0 1.1rem; } .home-wide img { object-position: center; } }

/* v7: smaller tags, smaller desktop images (mobile keeps full width) */
.tags-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(120px, 1fr)); gap: 1rem .8rem; }
.tag-band { padding: 1rem 0 .35rem; font-size: .7rem; }
.tag-hole { top: .32rem; width: 14px; height: 8px; margin-left: -7px; }
.tag-code { font-size: 2.4rem; margin-top: .55rem; }
.tag-city { font-size: .82rem; margin-top: .25rem; }
.tag-country { font-size: .6rem; }
.tag-bar { height: 32px; margin: .55rem 0 .2rem; }
.tag-num { font-size: .58rem; padding-bottom: .65rem; }
.home-wide { max-width: 720px; aspect-ratio: 16 / 6; }
.city-img { max-width: 560px; aspect-ratio: 21 / 9; }
.map { max-width: 390px; }
@media (max-width: 600px) {
  .home-wide { max-width: none; aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; }
  .city-img { max-width: none; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; }
  .map { max-width: none; }
  .tags-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: .8rem .6rem; }
  .tag-code { font-size: 1.9rem; }
}
.tags-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(5, minmax(0, 1fr)); max-width: 780px; }
.home-wide { max-width: 520px; aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; }
.home-wide img { object-position: center; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .tags-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); max-width: none; } .home-wide { max-width: none; } }
.mini-tag { position: relative; display: inline-grid; place-items: end center; width: 2.6rem; height: 2.15rem; padding-bottom: .22rem; flex: none;
  background: var(--paper); color: var(--paper-ink); border: 1.5px solid var(--paper-ink); border-top: .55rem solid var(--accent); border-radius: 4px 4px 5px 5px;
  font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 800; font-size: .74rem; letter-spacing: .02em; transform: rotate(-4deg); }
.mini-tag > i { position: absolute; top: -.42rem; left: 50%; width: .55rem; height: .28rem; margin-left: -.275rem; border-radius: 3px; background: var(--paper); }
.ci-grid a { gap: .7rem; }
@media (max-width: 640px) { .entry.has-thumb .thumb { max-width: 70%; } }
.ci-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(158px, 1fr)); }
.mb-banner { margin: .2rem 0 1.2rem; max-width: 520px; aspect-ratio: 800 / 220; border-radius: 6px; overflow: hidden; }
.mb-banner img { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
@media (max-width: 600px) { .mb-banner { max-width: none; } }

/* v8: desktop two-column heads, centred destinations, true mini bag tags */
.hero-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.05fr) minmax(0, 1fr); column-gap: 3rem;
  grid-template-areas: "label label" "title title" "lede img" "cta img"; align-items: start; }
.h-label { grid-area: label; } .h-title { grid-area: title; } .h-lede { grid-area: lede; margin-top: .4rem; } .h-cta { grid-area: cta; }
.h-img { grid-area: img; max-width: none; width: 100%; margin: .4rem 0 0; aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; align-self: start; }
.city-head { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 1fr); column-gap: 3rem; align-items: end; }
.city-head .city-img { max-width: none; width: 100%; margin: 0; aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; }
.tags-grid { margin-inline: auto; }
.home-dest h2, section.wrap > h2 { text-align: center; }
@media (max-width: 860px) {
  .hero-grid { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); grid-template-areas: "label" "title" "img" "lede" "cta"; }
  .h-img { margin: .2rem 0 1rem; }
  .city-head { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .city-head .city-img { margin-top: 1.2rem; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; }
}

.mini-tag { display: inline-grid; grid-template-rows: auto auto auto; justify-items: center; width: 2.7rem; padding: 0 0 .25rem; flex: none; height: auto;
  background: var(--paper); color: var(--paper-ink); border: 0; border-top: 0; border-radius: 4px; overflow: hidden; transform: rotate(-4deg);
  clip-path: polygon(6px 0, calc(100% - 6px) 0, 100% 6px, 100% 100%, 0 100%, 0 6px); box-shadow: 0 1px 3px rgba(15,29,74,.25); }
.mini-tag::before, .mini-tag i::before { content: none; }
.mt-band { width: 100%; height: .5rem; background: var(--accent); position: relative; }
.mt-band i { position: absolute; top: .14rem; left: 50%; width: .5rem; height: .22rem; margin-left: -.25rem; border-radius: 2px; background: var(--surface); }
.mini-tag b { font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 800; font-size: .74rem; line-height: 1; margin-top: .2rem; }
.mt-bar { width: 70%; height: .42rem; margin-top: .18rem; background: repeating-linear-gradient(90deg, #121620 0 1px, transparent 1px 2px, #121620 2px 4px, transparent 4px 5px); }
.tag-band, .mt-band { background: #1d47c9; }
.mini-tag { width: 2.55rem; padding-bottom: .3rem; }
.mini-tag b { font-size: .78rem; margin-top: .28rem; }
.mt-bar { height: .5rem; margin-top: .22rem; }

/* v9: compact spec sheet, themed panels, must-book emphasis */
.spec { border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 8px; background: var(--surface); padding: 1rem 1.1rem .4rem; margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.spec .spec-label { display: block; margin-bottom: .6rem; }
.spec .facts { margin: 0 0 .8rem; background: var(--bg); }
.spec .facts strong { font-size: .88rem; }
.spec-text p { font-size: .86rem; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: .6rem; }
.panel { border-radius: 10px; padding: 1.3rem 1.3rem .6rem; margin: 0 0 1.6rem; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--surface); scroll-margin-top: 5rem; }
.panel > h2:first-child, .panel .mb-head h2 { margin-top: 0; }
.panel .entries { border-top-color: var(--line); }
.panel .entry:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
#where-to-stay { border-top: 5px solid var(--accent); }
#shortlists { border-top: 5px solid #8aa1d9; }
#getting-in { border-top: 5px solid var(--muted); }
.panel-mb { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--mark) 16%, var(--surface)); border: 2px solid var(--mark); border-top: 8px solid var(--mark); padding-top: 1.5rem; }
.mb-head { display: flex; align-items: flex-start; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; margin-bottom: .6rem; }
.mb-head > div { min-width: 0; }
.mb-sub { margin: .2rem 0 0; }
.stamp { width: 104px; height: 104px; flex: none; transform: rotate(-12deg); margin: -.4rem -.2rem 0 0; }
.panel-mb .entries { border-top: 2px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--mark) 60%, var(--line)); }
.panel-mb .entry { border-bottom-color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--mark) 45%, var(--line)); }
.more-wrap { text-align: center; margin: 1.5rem 0 0; }
.mb-city { scroll-margin-top: 5rem; }
@media (max-width: 600px) {
  .panel { padding: 1rem .9rem .4rem; margin-inline: -.3rem; }
  .stamp { width: 74px; height: 74px; }
  .spec { padding: .8rem .8rem .3rem; }
}

/* v10: no TOC on city pages, compact facts, readable overview, smaller feature art */
.city-body { padding-block: 2rem 4rem; }
.city-body .content { max-width: 820px; }
.spec .facts { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
.spec .facts div { padding: .45rem .65rem; }
.spec .facts .label { font-size: .58rem; }
.spec .facts strong { font-size: .76rem; line-height: 1.3; }
.spec-text { display: flex; gap: .7rem; align-items: flex-start; background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--accent) 7%, var(--bg)); border-radius: 6px; padding: .8rem .9rem .2rem; }
.spec-ic { width: 20px; height: 20px; flex: none; color: var(--accent); margin-top: .15rem; }
.spec-text p { font-size: .95rem; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--ink); }
.feature { grid-template-columns: 132px minmax(0, 1fr); }
@media (max-width: 600px) {
  .spec .facts { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .spec .facts div { border-right: 1px solid var(--line); border-bottom: 0; padding: .4rem .45rem; }
  .spec .facts div:last-child { border-right: 0; }
  .spec .facts .label { font-size: .52rem; letter-spacing: .04em; }
  .spec .facts strong { font-size: .7rem; }
  .feature .thumb { max-width: 60%; }
}
@media (max-width: 600px) { .feature { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); gap: .8rem; } .feature .thumb { max-width: 60%; } }

/* v11: centred must-book column, centred destinations head, distinct footer */
.mb-page .content { margin-inline: auto; }
.dest-head { text-align: center; }
.dest-head .lede { max-width: none !important; }
.site-foot { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--accent) 9%, var(--surface)); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-top: 3rem; }
.site-foot ul.inline-list { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .35rem 1.1rem; }
.site-foot .fine p { font-size: .62rem; line-height: 1.55; }
@media (max-width: 600px) {
  .site-foot .fine p { font-size: .8rem; }
  #stay-connected, #transfer { text-align: center; }
  .feature .thumb { justify-self: center; }
}

/* v12: city head stacked (image under title), city column centred on desktop; centred principles on mobile */
.city-head { display: block; max-width: calc(820px + 32px); margin-inline: auto; }
.city-head .city-img { max-width: none; width: 100%; margin: 1.4rem 0 0; aspect-ratio: 21 / 7; }
.city-body .content { margin-inline: auto; }
@media (max-width: 600px) {
  .city-head .city-img { aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; }
  .principles > * { text-align: center; }
  .principles .pr-ic { margin-inline: auto; }
}

/* v14: price level per stay area, travel time per airport option */
.h-chip { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: .35rem .6rem; }
.lvl, .ttime { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .35rem; font-family: "JetBrains Mono", ui-monospace, monospace; font-size: .72rem; font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: .02em; padding: .22rem .55rem; border-radius: 999px; line-height: 1.2; white-space: nowrap; }
.lvl b { font-weight: 800; }
.lvl-h { background: #ffe25a; color: #0f1d4a; }
.lvl-m { background: color-mix(in srgb, #ffe25a 45%, var(--surface)); color: var(--ink); }
.lvl-l { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--accent) 16%, var(--surface)); color: var(--ink); border: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--accent) 40%, transparent); }
.lvl-note { font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: .4rem; }
.lvl-note .lvl { padding: .12rem .45rem; }
.ttime { background: #ffe25a; color: #0f1d4a; font-size: .78rem; }
.ttime svg { width: 14px; height: 14px; }

/* FAQ: ten classic questions per destination, below "Airport to city" */
.faq .faq-lede { color: var(--muted); margin: -.3rem 0 .6rem; }
.faq-list { border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.faq-item { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.faq-item:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
.faq-item summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2.2rem minmax(0, 1fr) 1.25rem; gap: .9rem; align-items: start; padding: 1rem 0; }
.faq-item summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.faq-item summary:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--accent); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 4px; }
.faq-n { font-family: var(--mono); font-weight: 700; color: var(--accent); font-size: 1rem; padding-top: .1rem; }
.faq-q { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 650; font-size: 1.08rem; line-height: 1.3; text-wrap: balance; }
.faq-item summary:hover .faq-q { color: var(--accent); }
.faq-chev { width: 1.25rem; height: 1.25rem; color: var(--muted); margin-top: .15rem; transition: transform .2s ease; }
.faq-item[open] .faq-chev { transform: rotate(180deg); color: var(--accent); }
.faq-item[open] .faq-qt { background: linear-gradient(transparent 58%, var(--mark) 58%, var(--mark) 92%, transparent 92%); -webkit-box-decoration-break: clone; box-decoration-break: clone; }
.faq-a { padding: 0 2.15rem 1.15rem 3.1rem; max-width: calc(var(--measure) + 3.1rem); }
.faq-a p { margin: 0; }
.faq-top { margin: 0; padding: 0; list-style: none; counter-reset: top; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: .45rem 1.4rem; }
.faq-top li { counter-increment: top; position: relative; padding-left: 2rem; }
.faq-top li::before { content: counter(top, decimal-leading-zero); position: absolute; left: 0; top: .15rem; font-family: var(--mono); font-size: .78rem; font-weight: 700; color: var(--accent); }
@media (max-width: 640px) {
  .faq-item summary { grid-template-columns: 1.8rem minmax(0, 1fr) 1.1rem; gap: .6rem; }
  .faq-q { font-size: 1rem; }
  .faq-a { padding: 0 0 1.1rem 2.4rem; }
  .faq-top { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { .faq-chev { transition: none; } }